Questions about the Outer Hebrides, Scotland for senior travellers.

The Outer Hebrides, the long chain of islands off Scotland’s north-west coast, raise a lot of practical questions for mature travellers planning a visit: how to get there, when to go, what language people speak and what there is to see. Odyssey Traveller has run educational small group tours since 1983, and the answers below draw on that experience, whether you plan to travel independently or with us on our Scottish Islands and Shetland small group tour, which spends two nights on Lewis and Harris.

Read on, but please do not hesitate to contact us via the website, or through email or chat if you have more questions about the Outer Hebrides or our other tours.

A beach on the Isle of Lewis, Outer Hebrides, Scotland

Dramatic sea cliffs at St Kilda, Outer Hebrides, Scotland

What is the Outer Hebrides?

The Outer Hebrides is a crescent-shaped archipelago of 200 islands which lies around 65 kilometres (40 miles) off the northwestern coast of mainland Scotland.

Stretching 210 kilometres (130 miles) from Lewis in the north to Barra Head in the south, the Outer Hebrides belong to Scotland’s Western Isles (in Gaelic, Eilean Siar) council.

As you can tell from its name, it is farther away from the Scottish mainland than the Inner Hebrides, which is separated from the Outer Hebrides by the Minch and Little Minch channels in the north and by the Sea of the Hebrides in the south.

Why do people visit the Outer Hebrides?

Visitors travel to the Outer Hebrides to go on walks or hikes to appreciate the islands’ rich landscape and wildlife, or to relax by the beach to enjoy the vibrant blue of the Atlantic. There are castles with history to see and plan your itinerary around such as Amhuinnsuidhe Castle on Harris, Kisimul Castle on Barra or St Clement’s Church at Rodel, as well as the beautiful island of Great Bernera to explore.

The turbulent waters of the ocean have given the Outer Hebrides a complex and dramatic terrain: sandy beaches, sheltered bays, treeless moors, flower-dotted grassy plains (called machair ), and soaring mountain tops. The Outer Hebrides also has a collection of Stone Age stone circle(s) and monoliths (notably, the Neolithic Calanais Standing Stones, which predate the Great Pyramid of Giza and the great sarsen circle at Stonehenge) for those interested in archaeological sites such as stone circles and ancient Scottish history, and the islands are an important stronghold of the Gaelic language and lifestyle. Visitors also enjoy the quiet and relative isolation of these fascinating uninhabited islands.

What is the population of the Outer Hebrides?

The total population of the Outer Hebrides is only around 26,000 (26,140 at the 2022 census).

What does “Hebrides” mean?

The name Hebrides is derived from the Norse word Havbredey, meaning the ‘isle on the edge of the sea’.

Are all of the islands of the Outer Hebrides inhabited?

No. Only 13 of these islands are inhabited, with about 80% of the population based in Lewis and Harris, which share the same landmass.

What are the major islands of the Outer Hebrides?

Aside from Lewis and Harris, which are on the same island, the other major islands are North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist and Barra.

Lewis is the most populous and its town Stornoway is the commercial and administrative centre of the whole Outer Hebrides.

What language do they speak in the Outer Hebrides?

The Outer Hebrides is one of the few areas in Scotland where Scottish Gaelic is still widely spoken in everyday life.

Over half the population in some areas speak the language, and education is provided in Gaelic. But you need not know Gaelic to enjoy your visit to the Outer Hebrides. Signage is in both English and Gaelic in many areas. However, if you are driving, it’d be best to pick up a bilingual (Gaelic/English) map. Those interested in the local linguistic traditions can take classes and watch performances rooted in the Hebrides’ Celtic heritage.

Map of the Outer Hebrides or Western Isles. Photo source

A view of the town of Stornoway in Lewis, Outer Hebrides, Scotland

A heather field in Benbecula, Outer Hebrides, Scotland

How did people settle in the Outer Hebrides?

You can get a hint of the Outer Hebrides’ settlement history from the Norse place names and the Gaelic language spoken by its inhabitants.

The islands were first settled in the Neolithic period, around 4000 BC, long before the Picts, the Iron Age people the Romans referred to as the Picti, or “painted ones” perhaps due to their habit of painting dye on their bodies (though this claim is contested by modern historians). According to a legend recorded by Bede, they came from Scythia before settling and forming powerful kingdoms in what is now northern Scotland. The Picts were more of a confederation of tribes rather than a single tribe, and did not leave written record behind, save for the symbols carved on standing stones which can still be found throughout Scotland.

The Vikings came around the 700s, and you can see the effect of their colonisation in the islands’ place names, majority of which are of Norse rather than Gaelic origin. The islands were ruled under the Norse Kingdom of Mann and the Isles until 1266, when the Outer Hebrides passed to the Kingdom of Scotland. Scottish rule replaced Norse-speaking princes with Gaelic-speaking clan chiefs. The islands became part of the Kingdom of Great Britain after the Treaty of Union united England (including Wales) and Scotland in 1707.

When is the best time of the year to go to the Outer Hebrides?

Visiting the outer Hebrides is best planned for April to June, if you want relatively warmer weather and still avoid the summer crowds.

Weather is an important factor to consider when visiting a destination, and in the Outer Hebrides it can be tricky as the weather is famously unpredictable, sometimes changing in an instant throughout the day. On average, the island enjoys a relatively mild climate. The annual temperature in Stornoway in Lewis average a high of 11.2 degrees Celsius and a low of 5.9 degrees, with more than 1200 hours of sunshine per year. August is the warmest, with a maximum temperature of 16.1 degrees. Once you’re in the Outer Hebrides, don’t forget to check the weather forecast every morning, and plan accordingly.

Do you need a visa to get to the Outer Hebrides?

It depends on your nationality, and the rules have changed since the UK left the EU. Many visitors who do not need a visa, including Australians and New Zealanders, now need an Electronic Travel Authorisation (ETA) before travelling to the UK. Always check the current UK entry requirements before you travel.

How do you get to the Outer Hebrides?

By plane, Loganair flies from Glasgow to all three island airports (Stornoway, Benbecula and Barra), and to Stornoway from Edinburgh and Inverness. Direct flights from Scotland take only about an hour. Barra is the only airport in the world where scheduled flights land on a beach, so flying there can be an experience in itself!

By ferry, you can travel by sea from the Scottish mainland to the islands. Visitors are advised to book their ferry tickets early, especially if they’re planning to bring their car across.

Arnol Blackhouse in the Isle of Lewis, Outer Hebrides, Scotland

View of the sea stacks at Traigh Mhangurstadh (Mangersta Beach), Lewis, Outer Hebrides, Scotland

Calanais Standing Stones

How do you get around the Outer Hebrides?

You can charter a boat and go island hopping, travel by ferry, drive, cycle, or take public transport.

Driving is the popular choice, especially for those staying on the main islands. You can bring your car with you via ferry, or engage car hire providers in the Outer Hebrides. With the causeways, it is possible to drive across the Outer Hebrides, save for two sections where you will be required to take a ferry: Harris to Berneray and Eriskay to Barra. Remember to drive on the left, and watch out for cyclists!

Speaking of cyclists: like a car, you can bring your own bicycle if you wish, or simply hire one. The tranquil landscapes and quiet roads of the Outer Hebrides are perfect backdrops for your cycling adventures.

Public Transport

Bus: Sunday bus services are very limited and evening routes are rare even in Stornoway, but buses cover most areas in the day from Monday to Saturday.

Taxis: Taxis are available on the main islands, and some operators even provide tours.

Where can you stay in the Outer Hebrides?

The Outer Hebrides has hotels, guesthouses, and bed & breakfasts, even in the remote locations. Several hostels are run by the Gatliff Hebridean Hostels Trust. You should plan your itinerary early, as accommodation on these islands is limited and fills quickly in summer.

What can you do in the Outer Hebrides?

Lewis and Harris, located on the most populous island in the Outer Hebrides, is a good place to start your visit. A well-known highlight is the 5,000-year-old Calanais Standing Stones located on the west coast of Lewis. This Neolithic monument predates the Great Pyramid of Giza and the great sarsen circle at Stonehenge. Our guide to the Callanish Standing Stones covers it in depth.

Other highlights include:

• The Arnol Blackhouse. Blackhouses refer to structures built with double walls of drystone, wooden rafters and thatched rooves. Historic blackhouses can be found across the Scottish Isles, but the best examples are in Lewis. Here, the harsh environment is reflected in the thicker walls and sloped roofs, where the strong winds demanded extra fortifications. Some blackhouses have been restored; the Arnol blackhouse now operates as a museum. Built in 1885 to house a family at one end and livestock at the other, this dwelling was quite miraculously occupied until 1964. Since this point, it is unchanged and very well preserved. Staff keep a peat fire burning inside and, without a chimney, the thick smoke billows slowly through the thatched roof and out the doors. It adds an air of authenticity, and highlights one of the possible sources of the name, blackhouse.
• Lews Castle. This Victorian era castle is located west of Stornoway on Lewis, and set within attractive grounds. It was built in 1844-51 for Sir James Matheson, a Scottish trader who earned a fortune in the Chinese Opium trade and purchased the whole island. English industrialist and philanthropist Lord Leverhulme bought the castle from the Lewis family in 1918; and in 1923, he gave the castle to the people of Stornoway parish. Since then, it has served different purposes until it was awarded 4.6 million pounds by the Heritage Lottery Fund in 2011 and converted to a museum and cultural centre. In 2016, the ground floor was opened to the public, including a café and restored ballroom. In 2017, luxury apartments became available to holidaying guests.
• Museum Nan Eilean. This is the museum located within Lews Castle: the product of a generous redevelopment in 2011. Exhibitions here celebrate local culture and at present, commemorate the loss of the ill-fated HMY Iolaire.
• Lovers of nature and wildlife will be richly rewarded here in the Outer Hebrides, where seal colonies – both grey and cute dog-like common varieties – are established, and bird populations such as the puffins, corncrake and razor bills flourish. There are otters, dolphins and basking sharks to spot as your walk or ride your bike around the islands. You are never far from the scenic woodlands, sandy coastal shores, rolling green hills or the misty and undulating peats of Lewis and Harris, and are everywhere reminded of the relationship forged between locals and nature.

Lewis, Harris, and North Uist are Protestant, belonging in the main to the free Presbyterian Church. Here, the Sabbath is strictly observed, with most bars, shops and restaurants closed on Sundays. South Uist and Barra are Roman Catholic, while Benbecula is a mixture of the two. There is no friction between the religious communities, but do take note of the religious observation of the Sabbath in order to avoid offence.

Where can I get more information about the Outer Hebrides?

Odyssey Traveller has an article about the islands of the Outer Hebrides where you can get more information, and our guide to the Scottish islands covers every island group.

Of course, there is no better way to know more about the Outer Hebrides than on a guided small group tour. Our 20-day Scottish Islands and Shetland small group tour leaves Glasgow and works north island by island, with two nights on Lewis and Harris: a full day for the Callanish Standing Stones, a Harris Tweed shop and the distillery in Tarbert and the beaches of Harris, then a morning at the Arnol Blackhouse before the ferry to Ullapool. Groups are up to 16 travellers and solo travellers are welcome. Our guide to island hopping around Scotland follows the whole route.

The Calanais standing stones are also included on our Prehistoric Britain small group tour, where we move south through Scotland, England and Wales to uncover the secrets of the past. Dawn at Stonehenge is a particular highlight of this specialty tour.

Links to external sites to learn more about visiting the Outer Hebrides

• Enjoying the delights of our uninhabited islands – Scottish Field
• Where can you see golden eagles in Scotland? – Wanderlust
• 5 essential tips: how to spot golden eagles in Scotland – Wilderness Scotland
• Where to see the golden eagle in the UK – Finding Nature
• Golden eagle – Scottish Wildlife Trust
• Hebrides – Britannica
• The Outer Hebrides or Western Isles – scotland-inverness.co.uk
• Stone circle found in Outer Hebrides is 50 years older than Stonehenge – The Independent
• Origin stories of the Callanish Stones – The Vintage News
• Scottish islands and island hopping – VisitScotland
• The islands of Scotland – scotlandinfo.eu