Sark, Channel Islands

A visit to the small island of Sark is something like stepping into a timewarp, where horses and carts still rule the roads and arcane feudal traditions shape daily life. On our Anglo French Tour: Normandy, Brittany and the Channel Islands, the group takes the ferry from Guernsey to Sark on Day 19 to visit the gardens of La Seigneurie, with a scenic carriage ride.

Like the other Channel Islands – Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney and Herm – Sark was part of the Duchy of Normandy in the early Middle Ages. When the French King took control of mainland Normandy in 1204, the islands stayed loyal to the English Crown. Today, the islands are self-governing dependencies of the British Crown and are not part of the United Kingdom, which remains responsible for their defence and international relations.

Out of the many intricate and perplexing governmental structures in operation on the Channel Islands, Sark’s is probably the most arcane. In 1565, Queen Elizabeth I gave Hélier de Carteret, the seigneur of St. Ouen in Jersey, permission to colonise the island in order to prevent it from being overrun by pirates. Since then, Sark has been ruled by the seigneur. The island retained its feudal form of government until 2008, making it Europe’s last feudal state.

Though a fully elected parliament was introduced in 2008, the seigneur keeps a non-voting seat in Chief Pleas and some traditional rights. Old traditions remain intact, including rules for land use and the lack of an income tax. One old privilege, abolished in 2008, meant that only the seigneur was allowed to keep an unspayed female dog. Other laws prohibit cars from Sark – the only motorised vehicles in use here are tractors and battery buggies for elderly or disabled residents. For tourists, there are three ways to explore the island – on foot, by bike, or by horse drawn carriage ride.

Located on a high plateau, the island is all rolling fields and bucolic country lanes. Peaceful Sark is also an ideal spot for star-gazing, thanks to the absence of street-lights. It was the world’s first island to gain Dark Sky Status. Look up at night and you’ll see the vivid and glowing patchwork of the Milky Way galaxy.

For beautiful scenery, most visitors head to La Coupée, a narrow isthmus which connects the island with Little Sark. Only about three metres wide, with cliffs dropping some 80 metres on either side, the road can be crossed on foot or by bike, but you may need to step aside for a carriage to pass. The isthmus offers panoramic views of the stunning coast.

Make sure, too, to head to the Gouliot headland for more coastal views. A wetland of international renown, the sea caves are covered in sponges, sea anemones, and colourful coral.

Sark has a number of interesting restaurants to choose from when you’ve finished your walking tour. For lunch or dinner, we recommend the Stocks Hotel. Located in a charming 16th century farmhouse, the Stocks Hotel is known for serving fresh island produce. Like much of Sark’s hospitality, it closes over the winter, so check opening dates before you travel.

Though most guests choose to visit Sark on a day tour from Jersey or Guernsey, accommodation can be found on Sark, including a handful of hotels and a number of B&Bs and guesthouses. For a route that links all three islands, see our Jersey, Guernsey and Sark island-hopping itinerary.

Seeing Sark on our Anglo French Tour

On our Anglo French Tour: Normandy, Brittany and the Channel Islands, Sark comes near the end of the Channel Islands leg. After Jersey (Days 13 to 17), the group sails to Guernsey on Day 17, visits the Occupation Museum and the Little Chapel on Day 18, then takes the ferry to Sark on Day 19 to visit the gardens of La Seigneurie, with a scenic carriage ride. On Day 20 the group tours Victor Hugo’s Hauteville House before the ferry to England. The tour is rated Level 2 – Moderate and led by an Odyssey Program Leader. To see the whole route, read our 22-day Normandy, Brittany and Channel Islands itinerary.

Articles about the Channel Islands published by Odyssey Traveller:

• Normandy, Brittany and Channel Islands: A 22-Day Itinerary
• Channel Islands: Wildflowers, Potato Peel Pie and Rebels.
• Walking Tours for Active Travellers
• Highlights of the Channel Islands: St Helier, Jersey
• Jersey, Guernsey and Sark: An Island-Hopping History Itinerary
• Why the Channel Islands Are Crown Dependencies: A Traveller’s Guide

For all the articles Odyssey Traveller has published for mature travellers, click through on this link.

External articles to assist you on your visit to the Channel Islands:

• Isle of Sark: A World Apart
• Lonely Planet: the Channel Islands
• Travel Guide: The Isle of Sark in the Channel Islands
• Visit Guernsey: Planning a Day in Sark
• The Crazy Medieval Island of Sark