Lisbon Travel Notes for Mature Travellers

Travellers, meet Lisbon. Lisbon, Travellers.

Hello there. Olá! I am Lisbon, an elegant Portuguese city perched upon the banks of the sparkling River Tagus. Locals call me ‘Lisboa’. I am famous for my many palaces, churches and castles, my dazzling pastel-coloured houses, my many vibrant and ornate tiled surfaces, my fresh seafood, my beautiful cobbled streets, my world-famous art galleries and restaurants and my spectacular beaches. One travel writer described me as ‘a place so beautiful you can’t believe people are using it to live in’. If you’d like to come see me, why not join Odyssey Traveller’s Discover Portugal small group tour, which spends its first four days in Lisbon, or our small group tour of Spain and Portugal, which spends three nights here? See you soon!

These are our travel notes on the city: riding the trams, hunting for tiles, eating and drinking, and slipping away on day trips. For an overview of the main sights, see our guide to things to do in Lisbon.

A colourful Lisbon street on a beautiful sunny day

As old as time itself

Lisbon, the capital of Portugal, is one of the oldest cities in the world. It is often described as the second-oldest capital city in Europe, after Athens. People have lived here for well over 2,000 years: there was a Phoenician trading settlement on the site by around 800 BC, which makes Lisbon older than Paris and Istanbul and roughly as old as Rome. It has been ruled by Romans, Germanic tribes, Moors and Crusaders. Situated on the Atlantic coast of the Iberian Peninsula, Lisbon is the westernmost capital of mainland Europe. It has been the de facto capital of the region for so long that there aren’t even any official documents declaring it the capital of modern day Portugal. The Portuguese just know it to be true.

The Initiation Well at the Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra, near Lisbon

City of Seven Hills

There are many myths surrounding the city’s famous seven hills. According to local legend, Lisbon was founded by Ulysses, who fell in love with its snake-woman, Ofiussa. When Ulysses abandoned her and returned to his Greek homeland, Ofiussa was so furious that she made the entire city tremble, creating the seven hills of Lisbon. Another tradition declares that the seven hills represent the seven gates of heavenly Jerusalem, and the seven hills of Rome, an idea popularised by 17^th century Portuguese authors such as Frei Nicolau de Oliveira. There is even a myth that the hills represent seven elements of matter: atomic particles, sub atomic particles, ether, air, fire, water and earth.

Getting Around on Trams

The best way to see what Lisbon has to offer is on one of its antique 1930s trams. On the yellow number 28 tram you can see much of the city’s best architecture in one ride. It heads through the district of Alfama, one of the few to have largely survived the 1755 earthquake, which destroyed most of the city. A 24-hour ticket covers trams, the metro and buses; check current fares before you go.

The yellow Bica funicular, one of Lisbon’s famous street railways

Alfama

The Alfama is the oldest part of Lisbon – walking through it can feel like stepping into a time machine. Indeed, walking is the best way to explore the Alfama. Its steep, cobblestone streets have a village atmosphere. You can wander the narrow lanes of houses and grocery stores, and even buy fish direct from doorways. Alfama was once home to many of Lisbon’s wealthier families, but over the centuries they moved to newer parts of the city and the area became more working class. These historical changes are reflected in the maze-like, hodge podge structure of the district. Towering above the neighbourhood is the Castle of São Jorge, the royal residence until the 16^th century. There are also many churches in the area, including the 12^th century Lisbon Cathedral and the 16^th century Monastery of São Vicente de Fora. Finish your explorations at one of the many lovely restaurants, soundtracked by traditional fado music.

Tile Art

Tiles, known as azulejos, are an essential part of Portuguese art and culture. The name azulejo derives from Arabic, meaning ‘small polished stone’. Portugal’s King Manuel I brought the idea back from Spain in the 16^th century, and over the next few centuries, tiles were used to adorn the walls of thousands of Portuguese buildings. The colours were influenced by the Age of Discoveries, as Portuguese explorers ventured all over the globe and brought back new images and experiences. The stories of Portuguese history, religion and culture are all represented in these tiles.

When visiting a Portuguese church, be sure to pay close attention to the altars, as many are decorated with azulejo tiles rather than traditional fabrics. Today it is common to see them all over Lisbon: restaurants, railway stations, residential homes and street signs.

Tiles on a tram!

Tile Museums

If tiles are your thing, Lisbon has a number of places where you can see them all in one place. The Museu do Azulejo features ceramic tiles dating back over 500 years. The exhibition route follows a chronological order, so you will get a unique journey through the history of Portugal – through tiles! If you’d prefer a less structured experience, a wander through the streets of Alfama, Chiado and Cais do Sodré is a wonderland for tile lovers.

One of the most important buildings in the country, the São Vicente de Fora Monastery, features many marvellous 18th-century tiles. The Monastery is built in the mannerist style, and its blue and white interior tiles tell the story of the Siege of Lisbon in 1147. Other tiles within the Monastery recount the fables of the French fabulist poet Jean de la Fontaine. A lesser known haven for tile art is in the city’s more upmarket hotels, such as the Palacio Belmonte and the Palacio Ramalhete – both former palaces of considerable opulence.

Street Art

Until the 18^th century, Lisbon had a tradition of building mostly white structures. However, after the 1755 earthquake, many of the city’s wealthier residents started building more colourful homes, either with paint or tiles. This accounts for the dazzlingly colourful palette of modern day Lisbon. Nowadays, the city has a thriving street art scene. Not all street art is made equal, but Lisbon’s errs on the quality side, covering the city’s history and popular culture. Look out for the large murals on Avenida Fontes Pereira de Melo, near Picoas, among them a giant silhouetted figure painted onto a multi-storey building; street art comes and goes, so some works may have been painted over or lost to redevelopment. Elsewhere, Rua da Rosa in Bairro Alto features street art on nearly every surface – and some of the best restaurants in the city.

Torre de Belem (Belem Tower)

Grab your 24-hour ticket and jump on a tram to the Belem district to see the Torre de Belem, a 16^th century fortified tower on the north bank of the Tagus River. Also known as the Tower of St Vincent, in 1983 it was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to the role it played in the Portuguese Age of Discoveries. It is one of the architectural jewels of the reign of Manuel I and one of Lisbon’s most popular tourist attractions.

Belem Tower

Jeronimos Monastery

Nearby is the amazing Jeronimos Monastery, one of the most prominent examples of the Portuguese Late Gothic Manueline style. Manueline is a richly ornate architectural style with a particular emphasis on maritime elements and objects. This heritage listed building has witnessed many of the most significant events in the city’s history. It was constructed by Manuel I in the early 16^th century in order for Hieronymite monks to pray for his eternal soul, as well as to provide spiritual assistance to the many sailors and explorers of the Portuguese Empire. In 1604, during the Iberian Union that had brought Portugal under the Spanish crown in 1580, Philip III of Spain (Philip II of Portugal) made the Monastery a royal monument and prohibited anyone except the royal family and monks from entering. Portugal regained its independence in 1640 and the monastery assumed its former importance. The building even withstood the 1755 earthquake. The religious orders lasted until 1833, when the monastery was abandoned. Today, the Monastery is an icon of the Portuguese nation.

Jeronimos sits adjacent to Praça do Império (Empire Square), a huge civic square with a large fountain in the middle, laid out for the Portuguese World Exhibition in 1940.

Jeronimos Monastery

Belem Museums

The Museu de Marinha is a maritime museum dedicated to Portugal’s long and storied history of navigation. The museum is actually within the Jeronimos Monastery in Belem. It was originally established in the 19^th century by King Luis I, who had a keen interest in maritime studies. The museum includes paintings, archaeological items, naval instruments and maps and scale models of Portuguese ships dating back to the 15^th century. It offers an incredible insight into the history and culture of Portugal.

There are a few more museums in the area. Drop in to the Museu Nacional de Arqueologia, a small museum featuring artefacts and mosaics from ancient Egypt and Rome, and jewellery from the Iron and Bronze ages. Also try the nearby Museu Nacional dos Coches (National Coach Museum), one of the finest collections of historical carriages in the world. It opened in 1905 in the old royal riding school of the Belém Palace, now the official residence of the President of Portugal, and since 2015 most of the collection has been shown in a modern building across the road.

Calouste Gulbenkian Museum

You could spend an entire day in this one stop cultural oasis. It is the legacy of the British-Armenian art collector and oil magnate Calouste Gulbenkian, who provided for it in his last will and testament. The Gulbenkian is one of the premier private museums in the world; it features an incredible collection of Middle Eastern and European art, including ancient Egyptian statues, Greek coins, Persian rugs, Roman jewellery and Turkish pottery. Its collections are a who’s who of European art: Rembrandt, Rodin, Renoir, Degas, Monet, Manet and right up to moderns like David Hockney.

MAC/CCB (formerly the Berardo Collection Museum)

If the Gulbenkian whet your appetite for modern art, get a full meal at the Museu de Arte Contemporânea at the Centro Cultural de Belém (MAC/CCB), which replaced the Museu Coleção Berardo in 2023 and still shows works from the Berardo collection. Almost every major 20^th century art movement is represented here, from famous ones like Cubism, Abstract Expressionism and Pop Art to more challenging experimental art. The collection includes some of the biggest names in modern art: Picasso, Dali, Warhol, Pollock, Man Ray.

Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology

The Museu de Arte, Arquitetura e Tecnologia (MAAT) is a large museum, opened in 2016, in a unique building that sits right on the edge of the River Tagus. In fact, most visitors come for the building alone – the art is an afterthought. Its smooth curved exterior looks as if it grew naturally out of the earth. One traveller thought it looked like a ‘flattened standard deviation curve’. Check current opening days and ticket prices before you go.

Eating

Lisbon is a foodie city. But it is best enjoyed spontaneously – wandering its labyrinthine streets and discovering little restaurants and bars along the way. As always, it’s best to take your time. Lisbon is known for its amazingly fresh seafood, tapas dining and exotic dishes influenced by the city’s colonial history. Some highlights include Insolito (built inside a grand old house, complete with chandeliers) and Páteo at Bairro do Avillez (operated by Lisbon’s celebrity chef, José Avillez). For the best views of the city try the marvellous Chapitô Restaurant in Alfama. For a fun experience check out Mini Bar, a restaurant themed like an old-school theatre.

Drinking

Travellers to Lisbon cannot leave without trying a local drink called ginjinha, a sweet liqueur made from sour cherries. Be aware – it’s very alcoholic! Famously, the sweet fortified wine known as port was popularised in the 18^th century when the British were at war with the French and started buying large quantities of wine from the Douro Valley in Portugal. Grab a glass at any Lisbon bar. Some favourites are Decadente, Pavilhão Chinês (a grocery store crossed with an antiques shop crossed with an old pub!) and Hot Clube de Portugal, one of Europe’s best jazz clubs. Restaurants and bars come and go, so check that any place named here is still open before you set out.

Ginjinha

Beautiful Beaches

Lisbon sits on the Atlantic edge of the Iberian Peninsula and is in close proximity to some of the best beaches in Europe. Surfers travel from all over the globe to try out Portuguese waves. And if surfing isn’t your thing, Portuguese beaches are a great place to people watch. Gorgeous humans everywhere!

Cascais

Tasteful Markets

Lisbon’s many markets are one of the best ways to explore the local culture. The largest is the Mercado da Ribeira, the best place to find seafood and featuring some of the city’s best chefs. Elsewhere, Feira da Ladra (‘thieves fair’) is a vibrant old flea market featuring antique and second hand items. The LX Factory Market (usually held on Sundays; check before you go) is more modern, featuring hip restaurants, art installations and start-up businesses.

Exploring Lisbon on Foot

Don’t let the steep hills of Lisbon put you off from exploring the city on foot. The ambling can be arduous but the narrow streets that climb up and down Alfama, Bairro Alto and Chiado provide ample shade to rest under. Your wanderings will be worth it for the best hidden restaurants where locals eat lunch, and lovely bars and cafes. The streets are best to explore at the start or end of the day to avoid the crowds of people and the sun.

City of Spies walking tour

Discover a secret side to Lisbon on one of the city’s spy-themed walking tours, run by local guides. In the Second World War Lisbon – a major Atlantic port city – was swarming with spies from all sides of the conflict. Portugal remained neutral throughout the war, and these tours take you to some of the most famous spy hotels in Europe and tell the story of the real-life James Bond and other WWII double agents. For fans of the novels of John le Carré and the movie Casablanca.

Cacilhas

Ferry to Cacilhas

If you find yourself with a bit of time to spare and in need of some relaxation, jump on the ferry to Cacilhas on the other side of the River Tagus. In less than half an hour you will have gone from a city to a village. Think seaside restaurants, old stone buildings, more beautiful tiles and spectacular views of the city. Find a restaurant, grab a glass of wine and enjoy the sunset over the water. Paradise!

Estufa Fria and Estufa Quente

This beautiful rainforest garden is one of the city’s quieter treasures, right in the middle of Lisbon. Situated in the Parque Eduardo VII, it is a delight for plant lovers and a tranquil hideaway for those wishing to escape the hustle and bustle of city life. Ferns, banana trees, streams and ponds – what more could you want?

Estufa Fria

Something different

For those looking for something a bit different, check out the public toilet in Terreiro do Paço Square. Trust me! This is a toilet like no other – in fact, it’s more like an art installation. You must pay for the privilege, but then you’ll be able to tell your friends you’ve been to the ‘sexiest toilet on earth’. Grab something in the attached gift shop for proof!

Day trip: Sintra

Live like royalty at Sintra, a picturesque Portuguese town in the pine-covered hills of the Serra da Sintra and filled with extravagant palaces, mansions and gardens. There are more than ten national monuments within this tiny town, ranging from opulent palaces to ancient castle ruins. Be careful to avoid visiting during the summer peak: the narrow roads to the town can get clogged with tourist buses. It’s best to visit in the shoulder seasons, when you can wander the cobbled streets with ease, breathe the fresh mountain air and marvel at this incredibly beautiful little town.

The Ancient Ducks House in the park of Pena Palace in Sintra, UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the Seven Wonders of Portugal

Seeing Lisbon on our Discover Portugal tour

Our Discover Portugal small group tour spends its first four days in Lisbon. Your Odyssey Program Leader meets the group on Day 1 for a briefing and welcome dinner. Day 2 is spent in Belém, with custard tarts at the Fábrica dos Pastéis de Belém, the Jerónimos Monastery and the Tower of Belém, then a stroll through the Alfama to the area around São Jorge Castle. Day 3 is a full-day trip to Sintra’s Pena Palace and Quinta da Regaleira, Cabo da Roca and Cascais. Day 4 is free to follow these notes at your own pace, before dinner and a Fado performance. The tour is rated Level 2 (Moderate), in small groups of up to 16.

More tours with Odyssey Traveller

If you are passionate about learning while you travel, you will find a variety of opportunities with Odyssey Traveller. We also offer an immersive 24-day small group tour of Spain and Portugal, which spends three nights in Lisbon. Odyssey runs small group tours in Europe, Africa, the Middle East and beyond. As long as you remain inquisitive, we continue to design programs to challenge and excite.

Articles about Portugal published by Odyssey Traveller.

• Questions about Portugal
• The Golden Years of Lisbon
• ‘Queen of the Sea’: A History of Lisbon
• Portuguese in Africa

For all the articles Odyssey Traveller has published for mature travellers, click through on this link.

External articles to assist you on your visit to Portugal.

• How to get from Lisbon to Sintra (Lisbon Guru)
• How much does it cost to go to Portugal? (Money We Have)
• The 15 Best Day Trips from Lisbon (The Crazy Tourist)
• 9 Awesome Stops for Your Road Trip from Lisbon to Porto (My Path in the World)
• Visit Portugal

Originally published July 27, 2018.

Updated on October 11, 2021.