
Understanding Spinalonga, Crete
An Antipodean travel company serving World Travellers since 1983
Understanding Spinalonga.
Spinalonga has, at times, been given the unfortunate nickname, ‘The Island of the Living Dead’ but despite this dark label most Greek and Cretan people know something of the island’s long history. In addition, local people will tell you of the island’s beauty even though much of its 35 hectares lies barren. The small island and its archaeological site are only a boat trip across Elounda harbour. The island fortress and its former leper hospital can easily be seen from the shores of Mirabello Bay close to the town of Agios Nikolaos, in the prefecture of Lasithi in the north-eastern region of the island of Crete.
When you first look out towards the island something to note is that Spinalonga has not always been an island, completely separated from Crete. Although there has been no concrete evidence found in the sources, it is believed the Venetians destroyed some of what was then Spinalonga peninsula to create the island, fortifying this to protect the port of the old town of ancient Olus. The remains of some of the ancient city are a short walk from present-day Eloundra, near the salt pans of the Venetian period. Most of the ancient ruins of this Minoan city now lies under the water that requires only a short swim with a suitable mask to view.
Odyssey Traveller has an escorted small group tour of Crete which includes a day trip to this Greek island which is metres off the coast of Crete. Spinalonga is visited from the old town of Agios Nikolaos on day 6 of escorted tour of minoan civilisation.
This 21 day in depth tour of Minoan civilisation visits the Archaeological site that define the Minoan, exploring with the tour guide the ancient ruins and time in the relevant archaeological museum(s). This escorted tour starts in Heraklion, travels onto Agios Nikolaos then Sitia. this escorted tour then makes the trip to Western Crete to explore the best archaeological site for Minoan civilisation in the discovered ancient ruins on this part of Crete. The tour director leads you the traveller to Rethymno, Chania and visits the old town of Stylos, Kissamos and return to Heraklion. The tour director leads this guided tour with an itinerary that covers the Island of Crete and Minoan civilisation for curious mature and senior travellers interested in participating on the best escorted small group tour of Crete from Australia and New Zealand.
Venetian & Ottoman occupation of Crete
The Venetian occupation and control of Crete as a trading centre and colony began soon after the Fourth Crusade in 1204. For the Ventians maritime commerce was the mainstay for this great trading people, and with Crete they were able with this collection of Venetian harbour anchorages to extend their networks still further into Asia and North Africa. The site of the ancient city of Olus and of the village of Elonda (as called in Venetian documents) provided the traders with an excellent Venetian harbour and also areas where they established collection vats in shallow waters to gather salt for a very lucrative venture.
For much of the Venetian period on Crete they were able to dominate most areas of the Mediterranean. However, such control was not without problems and the constant and continual threat from pirate groups roaming the trade routes meaning the Venetians sought to better fortify their Venetian harbour sites and towns. And so, from 1579, not only were the general fortifications of each Venetian harbour strengthened but also the fortress on Spinalonga was constructed on the remains of the ancient acropolis of Olus. With the completion of the fortress and installation of up to 35 large cannon, the island of Spinalonga became one of the most impenetrable in the entire Mediterranean for the Venetian military presence.
Whether it was due to the strength of the fortress or perhaps because of measured diplomacy, Spinalonga was able to remain in Venetian hands well after the occupation of the rest of Crete by the Ottoman Turk. The Cretan War and the Cretan revolt had brought about limited successes against the Ottoman Empire. However, it was not until 1715 that the Turks were able to finally vanquish the small island bringing to an end the Venetian rule in the region. When the Turkish eventually surrendered Crete at the beginning of the 20th century, after pressure from the great powers in Europe, the island became part of Greece.
Spinalonga in the 20th century.
Sadly, even though Spinalonga’s history stretches back far into antiquity and beyond, the island’s fame, or rather reputation spread worldwide when it became home to a leper colony in 1903.
A true understanding of the leper patient and the disease were many, many years away when it was first recognised that leprosy could be infectious. At that time, the only coping strategy was strict isolation. For Greece, Spinalonga island and its Venetian fortress were chosen as the isolation centre. In its early years poor unfortunate people with the infection were shut away in appalling conditions to await certain death. There was little or no hope of a cure or possibility of escape from a camp with absolutely no infrastructure in place for dealing with the sick. There was not even provision made for fresh water on the island. Moreover, it appears that the misinformed doctors of the time often committed people suffering from any visible skin disease mistaking this for leprosy.
No progress was made until 1936 when a young student, Epaminodas Remountakis, was diagnosed and sent to isolation. Rather than just give up he rallied support around him establishing the Brotherhood of Spinolonga and working towards improving the living conditions for the ailing population of the island. Gradually improvements were made with the houses finally being cleaned and painted, a paved road reopened and a service to provide cleaning to the people of Spinalonga. Sometime later, a power generator arrived at the island to provide street lighting as well as power for a small cinema. Money came from various sources but it can also be assumed that families that had yet to completely abandon their loved ones contributed where they could to create liveable and more comfortable conditions on the island.
The inhabitants began to see hope and as time passed further additions to the community were added including a coffee shop as well as a barbers. People there began to finally live a normal life or rather as best they could in such isolation. They were able to go to church, to school and even to take the chance to fall in love again. Suddenly they were able to see something else in their lives other than just a struggle for survival.
With the advent of a new drug to fight against the highly stigmatised disease in 1948, the number of people coming to the island slowly decreased with the very last inhabitant of the colony departing the island in 1962. Unfortunately, common misunderstandings of Leprosy continued with sufferers viewed more as monsters than patients. This meant that Spinalonga rated barely a mention and was avoided at all costs by locals and visitors alike.
Today though things have changed and a visit to what was once called the Grave of the Living has now become one of the most often visited sites on a Crete tour, second only to the Minoan palace at Knossos. Quite an achievement for an uninhabited island. After you leave the ferry that takes you across Elounda Bay, but before you enter, look to the small plaque entreating all visitors to the former leper colony to respect the memory of the souls that suffered here. It is likely as you wander the narrow streets you may feel something of the island’s previous inhabitants of Spinalonga fortress on a soft breeze.
The island has officially been renamed Kalydron but it is almost impossible to find references made to the new title, perhaps more attractive to visitors’ imaginations. Spinalonga’s heritage, both distant and more recent, lives on echoing off its wall and its buildings.
Spinalonga’s history and collection of ancient ruins on Odyssey’s Crete tour makes for a popular walking tour after the short ferry ride as a day trip from Agios Nikolaos. It’s inclusion in the itinerary at this part of the Odyssey escorted tour program begins a greater understanding of the long history of the island and its pivotal role in the Mediterranean sea for centuries.
Related Tours
-
Myanmar's Art and Archaeology | Small Group Tour
This is a wonderful small group program for seniors and mature couples and solo travellers focussed on the art and archaeology, designed to take you chronologically through Myanmar’s history. From Yangon to Pyay, where the 4th-9th century walled city has received Unesco World Heritage status, on to Bagan’s 10th-13th century pagodas, to Mandalay’s last royal dynasty and the 18th-19th century colonial era returning to Yangon for the colonial heritage and modern art scene.
15 days -
The Darling River Run small group tour
Small group tour for the mature and senior traveller of the Darling River. Learn about the history, culture and landscapes of the Darling, a key part of the Australian river system including Aboriginal trading routes and aquaculture. Suitable for mature and senior couples or solo travellers.
14 days -
Contemporary Japan | Small Group Tour
This small group tour organised by Odyssey Traveller, Contemporary Japan, will take you through modern life in this East Asian jewel. This contemporary tour for couples and solo travellers is an expedition through Japan’s major urban areas, beginning and ending in Japan’s tantalising capital, Tokyo. For the first 12 days we get our fill of Tokyo fashion, technology, culture, and sights.
21 days -
Southern Africa Tour | Fully Escorted Africa Tour for Seniors
Experience as a small group tour for couples and solo travellers, the beautiful landscapes of the Garden route and the unique wildlife at places such as Kruger National Park, Cape Town, Victoria Falls and Chobe Game Reserve. During the program participants will have the opportunity to learn about the culture, the politics and the social issues facing South African people in Soweto and more. How the natural resource managers are caring for their wildlife reserves in the face of land enclosure, climate change and poaching.
19 days -
Scandinavia tours for mature travellers
Uncover on a small group tour for couples and solo travellers, a Viking past and view of the world’s biggest fjords on this journey through Scandinavia. In low-lying Denmark our small group journey takes us to visit the Zeeland, the sea land, and our program includes the vibrant capital of Copenhagen. In Norway we travel through endless forests, skirting great fjords to Bergen.
-
History of France by Rail | Escorted Small Group Tour for Seniors
French History by Rail small group tour is based on Ina Caro’s book of the same name. Participants live in central Paris, using apartments as a base, living as the locals do, whilst meeting each day as a small group to journey by rail and TGV to the beautiful medieval centres of France.
21 days -
Santorini, Crete and Cyprus Small Group Tour | Eastern Mediterranean Islands Tour
A fascinating small group tour, with an amazing mix of culture and history – the islands of Greece, the cradle of Western civilisation, where traces of a centuries-old history exists. Visit Santorini, a remnant of a volcanic era; Crete, the home of the Minoan civilisation with important archaeological finds at Knossos and Phaistos. Rhodes, inhabited since the Stone Age; and venture further to the island of Cyprus, where east meets west.
-
Ancient History of Jordan | Escorted Small Group Tour
Explore Jordan, visiting its capital city, Amman Jordan, the ancient Desert Castles, Petra and the Dead Sea on a small group package tour for mature and senior travellers travelling as a couple or Solo.
9 days -
Western Europe Chateaux and Gardens | Small Group Tour for Seniors
This small group escorted educational tour combines visits to France, Belgium, Luxemborg, the Netherlands, and Germany. During the 26 days, we will discover a selection of the finest gardens and chateaux in Europe. Our destinations also include several UNESCO World Heritage Sites, for example the royal palaces built by the Prince-Bishop of Cologne in Brühl, Germany.
-
Northern Lights Small Group tour | Visit Norway and Finland
Odyssey’s small group tour following the Northern Lights allows you to experience serene snow-covered Arctic landscapes. Throughout our journey guides and specialists will outline the history of this stark region and the nature of the peoples who wrested their living from it. A unique opportunity to view this natural phenomenon travelling as part of a small group.
-
European Cities Small Group History and Cultural Winter Tour
An escorted tour A Journey that commences in Rome and takes in 12 destinations along its journey to Athens. This is an off season small group journey with like minded people. A small group tour across Southern Europe with local guides sharing authentic in-country authentic experiences for mature couples and solo travellers.
-
Secret France | Small group tours France | Places of cultural interest for seniors
Our small group tour designed with the mature traveller in mind, gives you the chance to see eight different locations over 25 days while experiencing local culture, trying regional cuisine, exploring breathtaking architecture and admiring beautiful scenery. From Zurich the tour will move south towards Sare before returning north to Paris where the tour finishes, for a significant part of our journey we will be following old pilgrim pathways, taking the group deep into the villages, valleys, shrines and ski resorts.
25 days