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Journey Journal

Prepare for Small Group Tour to the Caucasus | Armenia Azerbaijan Georgia

A thoughtfully curated collection of books and destination stories to deepen your connection with the people, places and ideas you will encounter on your journey.

Khor Virap Monastery with Mount Ararat rising above the Armenian plain. Small Group Tour to the Caucasus | Armenia Azerbaijan Georgia

The reading room

Recommended reading

These titles are selected to enrich your experience before you leave and to provide context as the journey unfolds.

01

The Caucasus: An Introduction

Thomas de Waal

In this fascinating book, noted journalist Thomas de Waal--author of the highly acclaimed Black Garden--makes the case that while the Caucasus is often treated as a sub-plot in the history of Russia, or as a mere gateway to Asia, the five-day war in Georgia, which flared…

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In this fascinating book, noted journalist Thomas de Waal--author of the highly acclaimed Black Garden--makes the case that while the Caucasus is often treated as a sub-plot in the history of Russia, or as a mere gateway to Asia, the five-day war in Georgia, which flared into a major international crisis in 2008, proves that this is still a combustible region, whose inner dynamics and history deserve a much more complex appreciation from the wider world.

In The Caucasus, de Waal provides this richer, deeper, and much-needed appreciation, one that reveals that the South Caucasus--Armenia, Azerbaijan, and Georgia, and their many smaller regions, enclaves, and breakaway entities--is a fascinating and distinct world unto itself. Providing both historical background and an insightful analysis of the period after 1991, de Waal sheds light on how the region has been scarred by the tumultuous scramble for independence and the three major conflicts that broke out with the end of the Soviet Union--Nagorny Karabakh, Abkhazia, and South Ossetia. The book examines the region as a major energy producer and exporter; offers a compelling account of the Rose Revolution in Georgia, the rise of Mikheil Saakashvili, and the August 2008 war; and considers the failure of the South Caucasus, thus far, to become a single viable region. In addition, the book features a dozen or so "boxes" which provide brief snapshots of such fascinating side topics as the Kurds, Turkish-Armenian rapprochement, the promotion of the region as the "Soviet Florida," and the most famous of all Georgians, Stalin.

The Caucasus delivers a vibrantly written and timely account of this turbulent region, one that will prove indispensable for all concerned with world politics. It is, as well, a stimulating read for armchair travelers and for anyone curious about far-flung corners of the world.

02

The Ghost of Freedom: A History of the Caucasus

Charles King

The Caucasus mountains rise at the intersection of Europe, Russia, and the Middle East. A land of astonishing natural beauty and a dizzying array of ancient cultures, the Caucasus for most of the twentieth century lay inside the Soviet Union, before movements of national liberation created…

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The Caucasus mountains rise at the intersection of Europe, Russia, and the Middle East. A land of astonishing natural beauty and a dizzying array of ancient cultures, the Caucasus for most of the twentieth century lay inside the Soviet Union, before movements of national liberation created newly independent countries and sparked the devastating war in Chechnya.

Combining riveting storytelling with insightful analysis, The Ghost of Freedom is the first general history of the modern Caucasus, stretching from the beginning of Russian imperial expansion up to the rise of new countries after the Soviet Union's collapse. In evocative and accessible prose, Charles King reveals how tsars, highlanders, revolutionaries, and adventurers have contributed to the fascinating history of this borderland, providing an indispensable guide to the complicated histories, politics, and cultures of this intriguing frontier. Based on new research in multiple languages, the book shows how the struggle for freedom in the mountains, hills, and plains of the Caucasus has been a perennial theme over the last two hundred years--a struggle which has led to liberation as well as to new forms of captivity. The book sheds valuable light on the origins of modern disputes, including the ongoing war in Chechnya, conflicts in Georgia and Azerbaijan, and debates over oil from the Caspian Sea and its impact on world markets.

Ranging from the salons of Russian writers to the circus sideshows of America, from the offices of European diplomats to the villages of Muslim mountaineers, The Ghost of Freedom paints a rich portrait of one of the world's most turbulent and least understood regions.

03

The Caucasus: A History

James Forsyth

For the first time, this major new survey of the Caucasus traces a unified narrative history of this complex and turbulent region at the borderlands of Europe, Asia and the Middle East, from prehistory to the present. For thousands of years the Caucasus has formed the…

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For the first time, this major new survey of the Caucasus traces a unified narrative history of this complex and turbulent region at the borderlands of Europe, Asia and the Middle East, from prehistory to the present. For thousands of years the Caucasus has formed the intersection of routes of migration, invasion, trade and culture, and a geographical bridge between Europe and Asia, subject to recurring imperial invasion. Drawing on sources in English, Russian, Persian and Arabic, amongst others, this authoritative study centres on the region's many indigenous peoples, including Abkhazians, Armenians, Azerbaijanis, Chechens and Circassians, and their relations with outsiders who still play an important part in the life of the region today. The book presents a critical view of the historical role of Russian imperialism in events in the Caucasian countries, and the violent struggle of some of these peoples in their efforts to establish a precarious independence.

04

Legends of the Caucasus

David Hunt (ed.)

The Caucasus has an extremely rich folk literature, almost unknown among English speakers, which includes myths, legends, magical tales, anecdotes, and proverbs. The one hundred and one legends included in this book reflect the cultures of fourteen different ethnic groups—their dynamism and the matters that concerned…

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The Caucasus has an extremely rich folk literature, almost unknown among English speakers, which includes myths, legends, magical tales, anecdotes, and proverbs.

The one hundred and one legends included in this book reflect the cultures of fourteen different ethnic groups—their dynamism and the matters that concerned them: survival against external dangers, the risk of starvation, and the persistence of the family or clan as a coordinated group. Descended from an oral tradition, much of their knowledge was retained in memories and passed down the generations. Yet, with the introduction of the alphabet, the way of life they portray is rapidly becoming extinct.

The translation is derived from the manuscripts of Russian collectors working out of the Russian Empire in the late nineteenth century and from the Soviet Union in the mid-twentieth century. The text is a mixture of prose and verse, reflecting how the legends would have been performed by storytellers within the culture.

This volume includes a map, bibliography, appendix, glossary, keyword and theme analysis, and references.

05

Caucasus: A Journey to the Land between Christianity and Islam

Nicholas Griffin

A rugged land between the Black and Caspian seas, the Caucasus is a battle ground for a fascinating and formidable clash of cultures: Russia on one side, the predominantly Muslim mountains on the other. In Caucasus, award-winning author Nicholas Griffin recounts his journey to this war…

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A rugged land between the Black and Caspian seas, the Caucasus is a battle ground for a fascinating and formidable clash of cultures: Russia on one side, the predominantly Muslim mountains on the other. In Caucasus, award-winning author Nicholas Griffin recounts his journey to this war torn region to explore the roots of today's conflict, centering his travelogue on Imam Shamil, the great nineteenth century Muslim warrior who commanded a quarter-century resistance against invading Russian forces.

Delving deep into the Caucasus, Griffin transcends the headlines trumpeting Chechen insurgency to give the land and its conflicts dimension: evoking the weather, terrain, and geography alongside national traditions, religious affiliations, and personal legends as barriers to peaceful co-existence. In focusing his tale on Shamil while retracing his steps, Griffin compellingly demonstrates the way history repeats itself.

06

Let Our Fame Be Great: Journeys Among the Defiant People of the Caucasus

Oliver Bullough

Part travelogue, part history, Let Our Fame Be Great tells the stories of the forgotten peoples of the Caucasus region, an incredible cultural crossroads where Eastern Europe, Central Asia, Turkey and the Middle East meet. The area was once the home of the Golden Fleece and…

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Part travelogue, part history, Let Our Fame Be Great tells the stories of the forgotten peoples of the Caucasus region, an incredible cultural crossroads where Eastern Europe, Central Asia, Turkey and the Middle East meet. The area was once the home of the Golden Fleece and Prometheus’ place of exile, and later inspired Pushkin and Lermontov, but its rich history has been overshadowed by decades of guerrilla warfare. Now, it is better known to us for the struggle in Chechnya and the 2008 war between Georgia and Russia. Traveling through history and throughout this tumultuous region, journalist and Russia expert Oliver Bullough details the major events—from nineteenth-century Tsarist expansionism to the modern day struggles in Chechnya and South Ossetia—that have shaped this fascinating land and its people: the Chechens, Nogais, Circassians, mountain Turks, and Ingush who have been consistently besieged—and woefully overlooked—for nearly two hundred years.

07

Three Apples Fell From Heaven

Micheline Aharonian Marcom

A New York Times Notable Book that imagines the lives of several sufferers of the twentieth century’s first genocide. Anaguil, an Armenian girl taken in by Turkish neighbors after the death of her parents who now views the remains of her world through a Muslim veil; Sargis, a poet…

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A New York Times Notable Book that imagines the lives of several sufferers of the twentieth century’s first genocide. Anaguil, an Armenian girl taken in by Turkish neighbors after the death of her parents who now views the remains of her world through a Muslim veil; Sargis, a poet hidden away in his mother’s attic, dressed in women’s clothing, and steadily going mad; Lucine, a servant and lover of the American consul; Maritsa, a rage-filled Muslim wife who becomes a whore; and Dickran, an infant left behind under a tree on the long exodus from an Armenian village, who reaches with tiny hands to touch the stars and dies with his name unrecorded.

08

Georgia: In the Mountains of Poetry

Peter Nasmyth

Georgia has been called the world’s most beautiful country, yet only little is known about it beyond its borders. This topical and vital book by the “ideal chronicler” (Literary Review) Peter Nasmyth is the perfect and much-celebrated introduction to its remarkable people, landscape, and culture. Over…

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Georgia has been called the world’s most beautiful country, yet only little is known about it beyond its borders. This topical and vital book by the “ideal chronicler” (Literary Review) Peter Nasmyth is the perfect and much-celebrated introduction to its remarkable people, landscape, and culture.

Over its 3,000-year-old history, Georgia has been ruled by everyone from the Greeks to the Ottomans, became a coveted part of the Russian Empire for a hundred years, and was incorporated into the Soviet Union in 1921. In twenty-five years, Georgia has undergone a dramatic socio-economical and political transformation, and although its political situation remains precarious, Georgia’s strong sense of nationhood has reinvigorated the country.

Vivid and comprehensive, Nasmyth’s Georgia: In the Mountains of Poetry is a unique eyewitness account of Georgia’s rebirth and creates an unforgettable portrait of its remarkable landscape, history, people and culture. Based on personal experience and offering fascinating insights into the life of ordinary and high profile Georgians, it is essential reading for anyone who does not yet know, or wants to know more, of this astonishing place.

Destination stories

Articles to explore

Read every article selected for this tour, from practical context to the culture, history and landscapes that make the destination meaningful.

Armenia, Caucaus mountains

Armenia: An Ancient Civilisation

Armenia: An Ancient Civilisation View over the city of Yerevan, capital of Armenia, with Mount Ararat in the background With a recorded history of more than 3,500 years, Armenia is home to one of the world’s oldest civilisations. This article is a brief summary of Armenia’s long history from ancient times to its modern-day independence. […]

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Gergeti Trinity church Tsminda Sameba , Georgia

Visiting Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia

Visiting Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia: The South Caucasus Visiting Armenia, Azerbaijan, and Georgia in one trip makes logistical sense as the countries sit next to each other south of the Caucasus Mountains but their deep, historical connections also make it imperative for travellers to visit all three to get a clearer picture of the region. In […]

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Armenia Azerbaijan Georgia

Ateshgah (Fire Temple) Azerbaijan

Zoroastrianism, the main religion during Persian rule, puts great importance on fire, which is believed to be a source of knowledge. Azerbaijan with oil and gas reserves was always on fire.

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Detail of wall decoration, Palace of the Shirvanshahs, Baku, Azerbaijan

Palace of the Shirvanshahs Azerbaijan

The Shirvanshahs came from a single family, the Yazidid dynasty, an Arab family who broke free from the Persian Abbasid caliphate. They ruled longer than any dynasty in the Islamic world, this the palace.

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Ikalto monastery, Georgia

History and legend in the landscapes of Georgia

Georgia's history and culture are as fascinating as its natural landscapes. Long at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, it has incorporated Turkish, Persian and Russian influence, while remaining completely distinct. Georgia was one of the world's first Christian countries, and the people remain fiercely religious today. The landscapes are dotted with ancient churches and monasteries, wineries that have been operating for hundreds of years, and villages barely touched by the outside world.

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Clothes began in Georgia | History of clothing

Clothes began in Georgia | History of clothing

Clothes began in Georgia In September 2009, a team of researchers and experts from the United States, Israel, and the Republic of Georgia examined clay retrieved from the Dzudzuana Cave and discovered something that would rewrite history as they knew it, stretching the history of fabric back much further than many people had every imagined […]

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Georgia

Among the Mountains: A Guide to the Nations of the Caucasus

The three nations of the South Caucasus - Armenia, Azerbaijan and Georgia - have long been regarded as the 'lands in-between' - in-between Europe and Asia, Russia and the Middle East, Christianity and Islam. They have passed between a succession of rulers - Persian, Turkish, and Russian. This article will provide a basic overview of the landscape, nations, and pre-modern history of the Caucasus.

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Noravank Monastery, Yeghegnadzor

Armenia’s Religious Architecture: The Definitive Guide

Buildings and Christianity in Armenia | Small Group Tours Armenia In this post, we will look at examples of Armenia’s buildings and building design before and after its conversion to Christianity. These buildings represent some of Armenia’s most significant destinations and they are often as physically beautiful as they are riveting. If you’re planning to […]

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Yerevan, Armenia

Yerevan, Armenia

Yerevan, Armenia Similar to its neighbouring countries in the South Caucasus, the Republic of Armenia has a history marked by incredible losses and bloody wars, which continued even after its independence from the former Soviet Union. But the tide of history seems to have turned in 2018 with the Armenian ‘Velvet Revolution’ and Armenians expressing […]

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Armenia Azerbaijan Georgia

Baku, Azerbaijan

Baku, Azerbaijan Baku is the capital of Azerbaijan, the centre of the city sitting on the shore of the Caspian Sea. Azerbaijan is perhaps a country in the Caucasus region that travellers do not think to include on their list of places to visit, but Azerbaijan puts itself decidedly on the map, especially with the […]

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Juma Mosque of Samakhi Azerbaijan azerbaijan-3699444_1920

Juma Mosque Azerbaijan

The Juma Mosque of Shamakhi (Juma Masjid) is the largest mosque in Azerbaijan

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Armenia Azerbaijan Georgia

Sheki, Azerbaijan

Sheki, Azerbaijan Sheki is often the last stop in a small group tour of the Caucasus as it sits close to Azerbaijan’s border with Georgia. The city, situated in northern Azerbaijan and one of its oldest cities, was once on the path of the great Silk Road. By the 19th century, Sheki was the main […]

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Armenia Azerbaijan Georgia

Discovering Georgia: The Definitive Guide for Travellers

Discovering Georgia Standing at the foot of the Caucasus Mountains, where Europe and Central Asia intersect, the land of Georgia is filled with wondrous landmarks and cultural experiences just waiting to be discovered on a sightseeing tour. A place of exotic beauty no bigger than Ireland. On a trip to Georgia you could ski down […]

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Gergeti Trinity church Tsminda Sameba , Georgia

Questions About Georgia for senior travellers

Questions About Georgia for senior travellers Odyssey Traveller specialises in crafting unforgettable experiences for senior and mature-aged travellers who are interested in learning as a couple or as a solo traveller. Providing adventure and educational programs to escorted small group tours since 1983. Odyssey has built up a reasonable knowledge bank to answer questions about Georgia […]

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Armenia Azerbaijan Georgia

Tbilisi, Georgia

Tbilisi, Georgia Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, was recently voted third best place to travel to Europe—trailing only Colmar, France and Athens, Greece—by more than 600,000 people in a 2020 survey run by European Best Destinations. The travel website devoted to promoting culture and tourism in Europe said Tbilisi “is the ideal destination for culture, […]

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Khor Virap Monastery with Mount Ararat rising above the Armenian plain.

Caucasus Tours for Older Travellers: What a 22-Day Small-Group Journey Involves

Caucasus Tours for Older Travellers: What a 22-Day Small-Group Journey Involves Caucasus tours cover a lot of ground — three countries, two mountain ranges and a genuine change of culture and script at each border — and it’s reasonable to want a clear picture of what that actually means day to day before booking. Odyssey […]

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Khor Virap Monastery with Mount Ararat rising above the Armenian plain.

Svaneti, Georgia: Mountain Towers, Memory and Community in the High Caucasus

Svaneti’s stone towers, built for defence and still standing centuries later. Svaneti does not feel like the rest of Georgia, and that is precisely the point. Cut off for centuries by the Greater Caucasus range, this high mountain region on the tour’s route from Kutaisi to Mestia has developed its own architecture, its own dialect, […]

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Khor Virap Monastery with Mount Ararat rising above the Armenian plain.

The Kingdom of Colchis: Jason, Medea and Ancient Kutaisi

The Kingdom of Colchis: Jason, Medea and Ancient Kutaisi The Greeks thought of the eastern Black Sea shore as the far end of the world, and the Colchis kingdom they placed there gave their poets a golden fleece, a king named Aeëtes and Medea, one of tragedy’s most unsettling heroines. That country is now western […]

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Khor Virap Monastery with Mount Ararat rising above the Armenian plain.

Armenian Khachkars: Stone Crosses, Memory and Medieval Craft

Armenian Khachkars: Stone Crosses, Memory and Medieval Craft Armenian khachkars are among the most distinctive works of medieval Christian art anywhere: upright slabs of stone carved with a cross rising from a rosette and surrounded by vines, pomegranates and interlace so fine it can resemble lacework. Each was made by hand, each is different, and […]

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Khor Virap Monastery with Mount Ararat rising above the Armenian plain.

Vardzia Cave Monastery: Georgia’s Rock-Cut City and Medieval Frontier

Vardzia Cave Monastery: Georgia’s Rock-Cut City and Medieval Frontier Vardzia cave monastery looks, from the valley floor, like a cliff that has been quietly hollowed out from within: hundreds of dark doorways and windows stacked in uneven terraces across a wall of pale volcanic rock above the Mtkvari river. Begun in the twelfth century as […]

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Khor Virap Monastery with Mount Ararat rising above the Armenian plain.

Georgian Wine and Qvevri: How an Ancient Clay-Vessel Tradition Survives

Georgian Wine and Qvevri: How an Ancient Clay-Vessel Tradition Survives Walk into a traditional Georgian wine cellar and the most important equipment is easy to miss. The vessels are buried to the neck in the floor, so all you see are round clay mouths, often ringed with brick and capped with a lid of stone […]

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Khor Virap Monastery with Mount Ararat rising above the Armenian plain.

Uplistsikhe Cave Town: A Rock-Hewn Settlement on Georgia’s Historic Crossroads

Uplistsikhe Cave Town: A Rock-Hewn Settlement on Georgia’s Historic Crossroads Uplistsikhe cave town is less a ruin than a city that happens to have been carved out of a hillside: streets, halls, wine presses, a theatre-like chamber and a hilltop church, all cut into a honey-coloured sandstone ridge above Georgia’s Mtkvari River. It rewards slow […]

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Khor Virap Monastery with Mount Ararat rising above the Armenian plain.

Ushguli, Georgia: Svan Towers and Life in a High-Mountain Village

Ushguli, Georgia: Svan Towers and Life in a High-Mountain Village Ushguli, Georgia, is not one village but four: Zhibiani, Chvibiani, Chazhashi and Murkmeli, strung along the upper Enguri River at roughly 2,100 metres, directly beneath the glaciers of Mount Shkhara. Grey stone towers, some of them close to a thousand years old, still rise above […]

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Khor Virap Monastery with Mount Ararat rising above the Armenian plain.

Sheki Khan Palace and the Silk Road: Craft, Trade and Caravanserais in Azerbaijan

Long before Baku’s skyline filled with glass towers, the city’s real gateway to the world was a walled quarter of narrow lanes and merchant houses called Icheri Sheher. Our small group tour of the Caucasus opens here, in the old town, before tracing the historic road west to Sheki — once a wealthy staging post […]

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Khor Virap Monastery with Mount Ararat rising above the Armenian plain.

Gobustan Petroglyphs and Mud Volcanoes: Reading Azerbaijan’s Earliest Landscapes

Gobustan’s boulder fields, carved with Stone and Iron Age rock art, overlook the coastal plain that runs down to the Caspian Sea. South-west of Baku, the Absheron Peninsula thins into a dry, cratered plain where boulders carved more than five thousand years ago still catch the low afternoon light. The Gobustan petroglyphs are one of […]

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Khor Virap Monastery with Mount Ararat rising above the Armenian plain.

Armenian Brandy: Yerevan’s Distilling Heritage and the Ararat Landscape

Yerevan at golden hour, with Mount Ararat on the horizon — the mountain behind both the city’s brandy houses and its vineyards. Winston Churchill kept a case of it at Chartwell and, for years, insisted no other spirit came close. Armenian brandy carries that kind of reputation into Yerevan’s tasting rooms and museums today, distilled […]

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Khor Virap Monastery with Mount Ararat rising above the Armenian plain.

Lake Sevan, Armenia: Monasteries, Landscapes and the Route to Yerevan

Lake Sevan, the largest lake in the Caucasus, is the hinge of this stage of the journey from Dilijan to Yerevan. Lake Sevan appears without warning. After a morning spent moving between medieval stone and forested hillsides, the road opens onto water the colour of hammered copper, stretching toward a horizon that could pass for […]

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