Romania is one of Eastern Europe’s largest, most diverse, and most fascinating countries. Sights range from the atmospheric mountain castles of Transylvania to the Black Sea coast; from the Communist architecture of Bucharest to rural villages seemingly unchanged since the Middle Ages. Each of the traditional regions has a wealth of treasures for the discerning visitor, while virtually every traveller will find something to surprise them.
Bucharest:
While first impressions of Bucharest might be dominated by the monumental developments of Nicolae Ceauşescu, dig deeper and you’ll find a city with a lot to reward the traveller.
The Palace of Parliament, built to house Ceauşescu is the world’s heaviest building, a lavish and vast complex that cost over 3 billion to build. Though divisive (to say the least), it’s worth taking a look for a window into the turbulent 20th century history of Romania.
Prior to Ceauşescu – who ripped up over 80% of the historic city – Bucharest was called the ‘Paris of the East’. A wander along Victory Avenue, a wide boulevard lined with grand belle epoque architecture, will show you why. The historic centre, built in the 15th and 16th century, is now home to a vibrant collection of restaurants and bars.
Bucharest is also a great place to explore Romania’s history at a number of fascinating museums. The National Art Museum is home to a superb collection of medieval Romanian art, while the Museum of the Romanian Peasant is a window into Romania’s distinct folk culture. Snagov Monastery, believed to be the final resting place of Vlad the Impaler, is a well-preserved medieval monastery, while the Domnița Bălașa is decorated with stained-glass windows rare among Eastern Orthodox churches.
Transylvania:
While Transylvania might not be the legendary home of vampires, it is one of the most atmospheric regions of Europe, home to dramatic mountain scenery, eerie Gothic castles, and quaint medieval villages.
Bran Castle pulls in crowds as ‘Dracula’s Castle’, but in reality the connections with the historical Vlad are thin. Built by German Teutonic Knights to overlook a high mountain pass, the 14th century castle nonetheless has enough atmosphere that you can easily imagine it the home of Stoker’s Dracula.
Corvin Castle, Romania’s most extensive medieval fortress, is equally atmospheric, while Peleş Castle, built in the late 19th century for Carol I, looks more like a castle from a fairy tale than a horror movie or vampire tale.
In the Middle Ages, Transylvania was home to a significant Saxon, or German population. Their legacies can be seen in the fortified church of Viscri and the charming medieval cities of Sighişoara, Braşov, and Sibiu.
Transylvania also has a significant Hungarian history. Cluj-Napoca, Transylvania’s largest city, is home almost equal numbers of Hungarians and Romanians today. The city’s architecture, which combines Baroque, Secessionist and fin-de-siècle architecture, places you firmly in the old Austro-Hungarian Empire.
Maramureş:
A visit to the region of Maramureş, on the borders of Hungary and the Ukraine, is like travelling back to the Middle Ages. Protected by mountains, Maramureş was never invaded by the Romans and has maintained a unique cultural identity since antiquity. The same mountains that repelled the Romans repelled the 20th century, and today villagers in Maramureş continue to use farming techniques and technologies – strip farming, wooden horse-drawn carts – developed in the Middle Ages.
Travellers are particularly drawn to the villages of Maramureş, home to elaborately-carved wooden churches and houses. Folk costume is still regularly worn here, straw hats, felt boots and galoshes for men and elaborately embroidered blouses for women.
Wallachia:
Wallachia, the region surrounding Bucharest, is also home to several important sites. While Bran Castle hogs the spotlight, Poienari Castle, in the foothills of the Carpathians is the real Dracula’s Castle, where Vlad the Impaler lived during his reign.
Built in the late 1970s, the windy Transfăgărăşan Highway was declared the ‘world’s best road’ by the hosts of the BBC Top Gear program. While the sharp turns and cliff-side passages of the road can be anxiety inducing, brave travellers are rewarded with spectacular views of the Carpathian Mountains and access to the glacial Lake Bâlea.
Moldavia:
Moldavia is Romania’s eastern-most region, a centre of religious history. Iaşi, the capital of Moldavia, is Romania’s cultural hub. The symbol of the city is the grand early 20th-century Palace of Culture, now home to several fascinating museums. Iaşi is also home to several antique churches, including the exquisite Church of the Three Hierarchs, which combines Armenian, Georgian and Turkish influences, and the late-Renaissance Golia Monastery, home to vivid Byzantine frescoes.
The highlight of Moldavia is the painted monasteries of Southern Bucovina. Painted in the mid-fifteenth century on the outside walls of several monasteries, the frescoes combine Byzantine influence with local folk motifs. Despite being exposed to the elements for centuries, the frescoes remain vibrant and vivid, a testament to the skill of the artists who created them.