Tortuguero National Park: Costa Rica’s Caribbean Jungle by Boat

There are no roads into Tortuguero. You arrive by boat, along a brown channel with forest pressing in from both sides, and you may hear birds, insects and, sometimes, the roar of a howler monkey. This is Tortuguero National Park on Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast, a lowland world of canals, lagoons and beach where green sea turtles come ashore to nest. This guide explains what the park is, why the turtles come here, what lives along the canals, when to go and how to get there, and where Tortuguero features on our Journey through Central America: Panama, Costa Rica, Honduras, and Guatemala.

What is Tortuguero National Park?

Tortuguero National Park protects a stretch of Caribbean lowland on Costa Rica’s northeast coast. It was established in the 1970s, though sources differ on the exact date, and today it covers roughly 31,000 hectares of rainforest, swamp, lagoon and shoreline, with around 35 kilometres of beach facing the sea. The name is often translated as “turtle catcher”, reflecting the area’s history of turtle hunting, and the park today is largely about protecting the turtles.

What makes the place unusual is the geography. A network of natural and man-made canals runs behind the beach, and the small village of Tortuguero sits on a narrow sandbar between the canals and the sea. Because no road reaches it, the canals are the roads, and boats, not cars, carry people, supplies and visitors from place to place. That is a large part of the appeal: a day in Tortuguero moves at the pace of an outboard motor.

Why do sea turtles nest at Tortuguero?

The park is an important nesting site in the western Caribbean for green sea turtles, and four species have been recorded nesting along the coast: green, leatherback, hawksbill and loggerhead. Female turtles return to lay their eggs on the beach, usually at night, dragging themselves above the high-tide line, digging a nest and covering it again before heading back to the sea. Research on the turtles here began in the late 1950s, and long-running research continues today.

Green turtles nest mainly between July and October, with the peak commonly given as August to September. Leatherbacks, the largest of the sea turtles, nest in the first half of the year, from about February or March to May or June. The eggs hatch roughly two months after they are laid, and the hatchlings emerge from the sand and make a scramble for the surf, so a visit in the later part of the season may coincide with hatchlings emerging.

Nesting is closely protected. Turtle walks at night are permitted only with an authorised local guide, and visitors are asked to stay on the sand, keep to the group, and avoid flashlights, flash photography and noise, since light can disorient turtles and hatchlings. Access to the beach is regulated and booking in advance is required, so check current rules with the park or your lodge. Whether you will see a turtle also depends on the season, and even in the best months a sighting is a matter of luck.

Wildlife on the canals

For most visitors, the canals are the heart of Tortuguero. A boat moves slowly through water so calm that the forest doubles in the reflections, and the quiet engine leaves room to hear what is around you. Park figures often quoted include 57 species of amphibians, 111 species of reptiles, 60 species of mammals and more than 300 species of birds, and the diversity of species is described as among the highest in Costa Rica.

Three kinds of monkey are regularly reported: howler, spider and capuchin. Howlers are the most often heard, since the males’ calls carry through the forest at dawn and dusk. Three-toed sloths, caimans and river otters are among the animals reported along the banks, and herons and kingfishers work the shallow water. Jaguars are reported in the park but are shy and very rarely seen.

Birds are the most commonly reported wildlife. Toucans, parrots and macaws are often mentioned, so a pair of binoculars is worth packing. A guide who knows the canals will spot things you would otherwise pass without noticing.

What is there to do besides turtle watching?

Most days revolve around the water. Guided boat trips along the canals are the main activity, and lodges commonly offer quieter options such as canoe or kayak trips, which let you glide close to the banks without an engine. On land, you can walk the village paths, stroll the beach by day (without swimming), and take a guided walk on a forest trail, where the mix of mud, roots and heat is a reminder of how wet this coast is. Bird watching fills the gaps between everything else, and it needs nothing more than patience and a good pair of eyes.

Because the park sits on the coast and the canals are the only routes, planning is simple: you tend to take whatever your lodge or guide arranges, and weather decides the details. Allow a flexible attitude, since a sudden downpour can change the plan for the morning.

How should you behave around turtles and wildlife?

Quietly, and at a distance. Never touch a turtle or a nest, never use lights or flash on the beach at night, and keep to the path your guide chooses. On the canals, do not feed animals or reach out to branches, and keep voices low, because noise sends wildlife into cover. Choose a licensed local guide, who will know the rules and where the animals are likely to be.

When is the best time to visit Tortuguero?

The honest answer is that it depends on what you want to see. Tortuguero is wet all year, and rain can fall in any month, so there is no truly dry season. Travel sources generally describe the early part of the year, around February to April, as the drier time, and the later months as wetter, but forecasts vary from year to year and showers are normal in every season. For turtles, the season matters more than the rain: green turtles in the second half of the year, and leatherbacks in the first half.

The canals are rewarding in any month, because the animals and birds do not depend on the nesting calendar. Early morning is often a good time on the water, though wildlife can be seen at other hours, and afternoon cloud and rain are common.

How do you get to Tortuguero?

Tortuguero has no road access, so every route finishes on the water. The most common route is by road from San José to a boat landing such as La Pavona, then a boat ride of about one to one and a half hours, depending on conditions, through the canals to the village. The other option is a short flight of about 35 minutes from San José to the small airstrip at Tortuguero; check current schedules. Either way the arrival feels remote, which is part of the point.

From La Fortuna, the journey is typically a long day of driving and boat travel, so the Caribbean coast works best as a stop of its own with at least two nights.

What is the village of Tortuguero like?

Small, low-key and shaped by the park. Because no road reaches it, there is no through traffic, and the setting on a sandbar between the canals and the sea means you can hear the surf on one side and see the lagoon on the other. It is a good place to learn about the turtles and the park before you meet them on the beach, and some of the lodges around it sit along the canals and are reached by boat.

What is the weather like, and what should you wear?

Hot and humid, with frequent rain. Lightweight, quick-drying long sleeves and trousers protect against sun and insects, and a light waterproof jacket or poncho is useful for boat trips. Closed shoes or sandals with good grip are better than flip-flops on wet boardwalks and boat steps, and insect repellent and sunscreen should be at the top of the bag. Bring binoculars and a camera with a zoom lens if you have them.

Can you swim at Tortuguero?

Not in the sea. The Caribbean beach has strong currents and rip tides, so swimming in the sea is considered dangerous, and local advice is to stay out of the surf. The beach is for walking and for watching the sea, and some lodges have a pool for cooling off.

How many days do you need in Tortuguero?

Two nights gives time for a morning on the canals, a visit to the village and the beach, and a turtle walk if you have booked one. A single night is a rush, because the journey in and out takes a good part of a day.

Seeing Tortuguero with a small group

If you would rather see the park with a small group, Days 7 and 8 of our 27-day Central America tour are spent on the Caribbean coast, with two overnights there. The group drives northeast on Day 7, and because Tortuguero is not reachable by road, the final stretch is by boat. Activities include an early-evening river safari and a wildlife and nature expedition. On Day 9 the journey continues towards Lake Arenal and La Fortuna.

The itinerary is graded Activity Level 2, which means three to five hours of physical activity a day, and the park is warm and humid. The group is small, with up to 16 travellers, and solo travellers are welcome. Tortuguero is one stage of a longer journey, and our guide to the whole Central America route shows where it fits. For a very different side of Costa Rica, the cloud forest at Monteverde and the country’s highland coffee country sit at the other end of the climate scale. However you arrive, take your time on the water: sit still, listen, and see what the forest offers.