La Fortuna and Arenal Volcano: A Costa Rica Rainforest Guide

Rising almost alone above the farmland and rainforest of northern Costa Rica, Arenal Volcano is the kind of mountain a child would draw: a near-perfect cone, often wrapped in a ring of cloud at the summit. At its foot lies La Fortuna, Costa Rica, a small town that has become the base for rainforest walks, a famous waterfall, warm rivers, wildlife and the largest lake in the country. This guide covers the story of the volcano, what there is to see and do around it and how to plan your time, and it notes where our Journey through Central America: Panama, Costa Rica, Honduras, and Guatemala fits if you would like to see the area with a small group.

A volcano that woke without warning

Arenal is young, as volcanoes go: its cone is thought to be less than 7,000 years old. For centuries before 1968 it was quiet and forested, and few people in the area thought of it as a volcano at all. Then, in July 1968, it erupted without warning and destroyed the small town of Tabacón on its slopes. The eruption did not stop. Arenal went on erupting, with ash, rockfalls and glowing lava, for more than forty years, until 2010. It is now dormant, and scientists continue to monitor it. Until 2010 the main attraction was the sight of glowing rock tumbling down the cone after dark, which is what first drew visitors in numbers; today it is the mountain itself, the forest around it and the warm water that rises beneath it.

The volcano stands 1,633 metres high. Its cone is almost perfectly symmetrical, with a crater about 140 metres across, and it rises abruptly from flat farmland, which is why it dominates the skyline for miles around. Cerro Chato, an inactive volcano with a crater lake, lies a few kilometres away, and from some angles the two peaks stand side by side.

La Fortuna Costa Rica: a farming town beneath a volcano

The name La Fortuna means “the fortune”. The town was already called that before the 1968 eruption, and the name is usually linked to the flat, fertile farmland on which it sits. When Arenal’s nightly displays began to draw visitors, hotels, hot springs and guiding businesses followed. A farming town became one of the main destinations in northern Costa Rica, and it has remained one ever since the eruption stopped.

It is still a small place, set among pasture, rainforest and rivers, and what people come for is the setting rather than the town itself. La Fortuna lies in the northern lowlands, roughly 115 to 130 kilometres north-west of the capital, a drive of about three hours in normal conditions, and our guide to San José, Costa Rica describes the city that most travellers pass through first.

Lake Arenal: Costa Rica’s largest lake

Lake Arenal covers nearly 85 square kilometres and lies at the foot of the volcano in the northern highlands, which makes it the largest lake in the country. It is not entirely natural, unlike the volcanic caldera of Lake Atitlan in Guatemala. The lake was enlarged in 1979 as part of a hydroelectric project, and its dam still supplies electricity to the national grid. The rising water covered two small towns, whose residents were moved to new sites, and when the level drops in the dry season, traces of the old buildings can sometimes be seen.

Today the lake is a place for boat trips, which typically last two to three hours and give long views of the cone across the water, as well as for kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding. The steady winds that blow across the lake have also made it popular for wind sports. Its forested shores are quieter than the area around La Fortuna, and it is a good place to stop for a slow lunch with a view of the volcano.

Walking in the forest around Arenal

The area around the volcano is protected as Arenal Volcano National Park, which covers roughly 30,000 acres and includes lowland rainforest, premontane forest and cloud forest. Trails run through the forest, and some cross older lava from the 1968 eruption, now covered in new growth, so a walk here is partly a lesson in how quickly forest reclaims bare rock. Hanging bridges, which carry walkers across ravines at canopy level, are a popular alternative at several private reserves nearby.

The rainforest repays slow looking. Buttressed roots flare from the bases of the largest trees, epiphytes cling to every branch, ferns and heliconia fill the understorey, and the noise changes from one stretch of the path to the next. A local guide makes a great difference in forest like this, because most of what lives in it is heard or half-seen first, and a trained eye turns a walk through green into a walk through a place full of detail.

La Fortuna Waterfall: what to expect

La Fortuna Waterfall drops about 70 metres into a rocky pool in a forested gorge, a short drive from the town. A viewing platform at the top gives a first look at the falls, and the way down is a staircase of roughly 500 steps, which takes around 25 to 40 minutes. The climb back up is harder than the descent, so allow time and rest on the way. At the bottom there is a pool where many visitors swim, though conditions vary with the season and recent rain, so follow any local guidance on the day. Some people reach the site on horseback, and sturdy shoes with good grip matter more than anything else you can bring.

Hot springs near La Fortuna

The area’s hot springs are fed by water heated by the volcano, and several were developed after the 1968 eruption. There are more than a dozen, from large resort-style complexes with several pools to simpler riverside soaks, and many hotels and spas allow non-guests to use their pools for an entrance fee. The water temperature varies from one pool to the next, so it is worth trying the cooler ones before the hottest. A soak at the end of a day of walking is the classic way to round off a visit. Opening hours and ticketing change, so check the official website of the one you choose, and take it gently if you are not used to very warm water.

What wildlife can you see around La Fortuna?

Sloths, howler monkeys and a large number of birds live in the forests around Arenal, though sightings can never be promised. Early morning and the hour before dusk are the most active times for most forest animals, so an early start rewards patience. Hundreds of species of birds have been recorded in the national park, which forms part of a protected corridor of forest linking Arenal with the cloud forest reserve at Monteverde. Floating safaris down the Peñas Blancas River offer a quiet way to watch for animals in the canopy, and the Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge, about two hours from La Fortuna, is a favourite with birdwatchers.

For river wildlife on a larger scale, the classic destination is Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast at Tortuguero, a lowland river jungle with no road access, reached by boat. Arenal and Tortuguero complement each other, one a volcanic highland forest and the other a lowland waterway.

When is the best time to visit La Fortuna?

The dry season, from about December to April, gives the best chance of clear skies and a view of the summit. From May to November the rains arrive, usually as afternoon showers, and the forest turns a deeper green. The volcano is often under cloud at any time of year, so it is worth treating the cone as something to enjoy if it appears, not something the trip depends on. The rainforest itself is at its best whatever the weather, and a light waterproof is useful in every month.

How many days do you need in La Fortuna?

Two to three days is a sensible stay. The forest walk, the waterfall, a hot spring and a boat trip on the lake each take most of a morning or an afternoon, and cloud or rain may force you to rearrange the order, so a third day leaves some room. Staying a single night means choosing between them.

How demanding are the walks around La Fortuna?

The waterfall staircase is the most demanding of the usual excursions. Forest trails vary: some are wide and mainly flat, while others are damp and uneven, with roots, steps and slippery stones, so shoes with a good grip and a steady pace are the sensible approach. Lightweight, quick-drying layers, a waterproof jacket, a sun hat and a small bag with water are all worth carrying, and a camera or binoculars should be where you can reach them quickly.

Seeing La Fortuna with a small group

If you would rather see the area with a small group, Days 9 to 11 of our 27-day Central America tour take in La Fortuna and Lake Arenal. The group reaches La Fortuna on Day 9 after a drive from Tortuguero and a boat crossing of Lake Arenal, spends Day 10 exploring the forest around Arenal Volcano, and crosses the lake again on Day 11 for Monteverde. The itinerary does not list the hot springs or La Fortuna Waterfall, so a Tour Specialist can talk you through the days before you book. The journey begins in Panama City, and our guide to the whole Central America route shows how La Fortuna fits into it. It runs in groups of up to 16 travellers, with solo travellers welcome.

However you come to it, La Fortuna rewards a slow approach. Take the forest walk early, keep an eye on the cloud, and leave time simply to look at the volcano while it is there.